A drive towards Roanne shadowing the Loire towards St Etienne brings up the Parc Naturel Régional du Pilat. The mountainous park of 65,000 hectares has more than 200 km of rivers and 300km of ramblers’ paths – it is known as the lungs of Lyon and St Etienne.

Around Roanne the Loire river enters some impressive gorges. Roanne is an industrial town but also has a reputation as a centre of gastronomy. Part of the town sits on a hill jutting out into the river. The local wines Côte Roannaise were granted Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée status in 1994. Some 12 km from Roanne is St-Hâon-le-Châtel, a fortified hilltop village with several dramatic imposing towers and gates. Also good looking is the Château de la Roche, Saint Priest which thanks to an artificial barrage looks moated. Montbrison off the A72 on the way down to St Etienne makes for a pleasant detour. Despite being damaged during the Hundred Years’ War and Wars of Religion, the 13-14th century gothic church of Notre Dame d’Espérance has an imposing facade, large nave and 42m high tower.

	Roannaises wine

Behind the church, as an extra bonus, is an unusual painted hall from the 13th century called La Diana. The paintings feature heraldic panels and the hall’s vaulted ceiling has a museum of local history. The town also has a doll museum with more 600 dolls.

St Etienne has done a lot recently to throw of its image of being rather dark, dour and industrial - it is known as the Ville Verte (green town). Place de Peuple is fairly lively but the city’s two main attractions are indoors: Musée d’Art et d’Industrie and the Musée d’Art Moderne. The first will grab anyone’s attention who likes mechanical things and the second is for contemporary art lovers and includes works by Andy Warhol.