Characterised by the thriving port capital of Bastia - all Italianate style buildings - and Calvi, where Nelson lost his eye, the north is a bit lighter on hide-away beaches but bigger on classy resorts.

Bastia really bustles with its daily outdoor food market at the Place de l’Hotel de Ville (look out for wild boar - sanglier, Corsican honey and olive oil), from where it’s a short stroll to a handful of extrovertly ornate churches such as Eglise Ste-Marie with its Virgin made out of a tonne of solid silver.

The old town is worth taking some time over as it has preserved its streets in the form of steps which inter-connect by vaulted passages. This adds a good bit of interesting atmospheric pace to what could otherwise be the usual "nose buried in the guide book" short canter.

	St Florent Bay

Calvi, a roughly 70 km drive over on the north-west by comparison, is a bit of a humdrum split: half military, half resort town, although a number of palm-shaded cafés around the Quai Landry, and flashy yachts hark back to the days when the town pulled in the jet set.

Tracing a languid route along the coastal stops from Calvi, L’Ile-Rousse with its flapping laundry on the lines and pétanque players makes for more recognisable France. While the waterfront strip at St Florent has more than a touch of the Riviera. Both are worth exploring before heading inland.

Corte is really the inland highlight, not just for exploring the nearby mountain area and Gorges de la Restonica but for the Musée de la Corse. The museum displays island traditions such as boar hunting, rather weird looking "Klan" style costumes that are worn for religious festivals and the disembodied sounds of Corsican folk songs. It’s a singular experience.

	Bastia

Vivario and Vizzavona lie in the wildest part of the Corsican interior. With waterfalls, rocks and forests, this is excellent walking country. The Grande Randonnée GR20 runs through the area with a trail up Mont d’Oro for experienced hikers. There are shorter loops for the less adventurous, such as Les Gorges du Manganellu.

Pushing another 40km on to the east coast, Aléria probably has the best collection of island artefacts recovered from tombs on the Roman Site.