Nature re-asserts itself in the Bouches-du-Rhône with a vengeance, holding on to vast acres of coastal land. Many of the original villages have been built up and unfortunately lost their original appeal.

One of the few to have remained relatively unchanged is Cassis. The main spectacle is the daily comings and goings in the fishing port - a source of inspiration to artists such as Dufy and Signac. The little port remains the focal point but there is also the option of taking a boat trip to the calanques - deep inlets of turquoise waters between jagged white cliffs.

Away from the coast Aix en Provence, once the area’s capital, is strikingly beautiful. Its most famous resident, Paul Cézanne, captured his world on canvas and most visitors are happy to record the views on film. Finding your way around street jumbled Vieil Aix is tricky, but with plenty of fountains and squares to stop at and an almost continuous cinematic run of 16th and 17th century buildings, it doesn’t really matter.

Cours Mirabeau, Aix en Provence

The tree-lined avenue of Cours Mirabeau with its cafés and three fountains is a beautiful street and good starting point. Saturday is market day in Aix with undoubtedly the best market in Provence.

Marseille, France’s second most populated city and largest port, is an exotic cosmopolitan mix with a louche reputation. Narrow steep streets contrast with the modern bustle of the main boulevard La Canebière. It has a poor reputation as a tourist city and the vieux port can’t be said to have any claim to great beauty - although it is the place to come and sample bouillabaisse. For serious gourmets, it is supposed to be the best in France.

Arles, set on the Rhône and gateway to the Camargue, is one of France’s best preserved cities with a stunning Roman amphitheatre and medieval artefacts including churches and carvings. Boulevards E-Combes, Clemençeau and des Lices keep the centre hemmed in. A day trip will never be enough to do justice to the town and to really appreciate the amphitheatre, a visit at night is essential. But be warned that many of the events involve bulls. Some are not mise-à-mort (to the death) but still involve bull baiting. There are occasional casualties but they’re mostly sustained by the razeteurs (bull-fighters) not the bulls.

	Arles Arena

346,000 acres of wetland encompass the Camargue - a huge region where nature is at its unbridled best. Famed for its wildlife, home to black bulls and white horses and the local gardiens - herdsmen who also keep the traditions of the community alive - it is a fragile balance of unique and captivating ecosystems. You can explore at will but it’s advisable to head for the Centre d’Ecologie to get local information and directions. A few tips: the road surfaces can be hazardous along the dykes, theft from parked cars is not uncommon and mosquitoes are rife when it’s warm.