At first glance the Vendée seems to be merely a lull between the vibrant ports of Nantes to the north and La Rochelle to the south. But sun-seekers on the hunt for peaceful, sandy beaches, should head for the near-island of Noirmoutier - once reachable only at low tide but now equipped with a bridge.

The island, 18 km long but barely two wide, was once the salt capital of France, and the marshes still stretch out before you. In the town of Noirmoutier, the well-preserved 12th century château is now a museum.

Equally tempting is the 13 km stretch of sand at La Tranche sur Mer. Venture inland, though, and a relatively undiscovered landscape rich in history and wildlife awaits.

The Ile d’Yeu is a true island, reached by boat from Fromentine or St Gilles Croix de Vie. First inhabited by the Romans, it now relies on fishing and tourism, although it is still quieter than the mainland beaches. Maréchal Pétain was imprisoned in the town of Port-Joinville after World War II, and there is also a Vieux Château crumbling on the craggy coast.

	Pointe du Payre

The Renaissance town of Fontenay le Comte lies between the Pays de Mélusine to the north (named after the local fairy-maid), and the Marais Poitevin to the south.

To explore the fairy domain, head south from Vouvant with its 12th century Tour de Mélusine into the forest, studded with ancient buildings and standing stones. The Marais, also known as “Green Venice”, is a reminder that this region was once seasonally flooded, until medieval monks dug canals to drain the marshes. Today, punts are as necessary as cars for the locals to move around this lush green landscape.

The ancient market town of Luçon, where Richelieu sat as bishop, lies on the border between the sea and the marshes. Nearby are the vineyards of Mareuil sur Lay. West is Talmont St Hilaire which was once a port before silting up. The remains of the 11th century château can be visited, including the keep which has a spectacular view.

Les Sables d’Olonne, the biggest - and perhaps the busiest - resort on this part of the coast is also a fishing port. La Roche sur Yon was created from scratch in 1804 using a grid pattern. While 60s industrialisation has hurt the town, it still has a few sites including the empire style facade of the St Louis church in Place Napoléon.

	Les Sables d'Olonne

In the north of the département is the industrial town of Montaigu with the nearby Château de la Preuille. Begun in the 13th century, the château is one of the oldest in the Loire and has a wine museum open between June and September. East is Mortagne sur Sèvre which is often bypassed despite its prettiness.

Near to the coast lies Challans which is famous for its duck and chicken. The town has a holiday feel and anyone there on a Thursday between Bastille Day (14 July) and 15 August will see the town transformed back to 1910 for the annual festival.

On the coast, and definitely a holiday resort, is St Jean de Monts. Residential blocks line the fine sandy beach, spoiling what was once a charming place to stay. For nine months of the year the shutters stay closed.