Tucked quietly away between southern Normandy and the Loire valley, Mayenne offers a taste of real French countryside - through which the farmers have watched the armies march back and forth over the centuries.

Across the north of the département, the Parc Naturel Régional de Normandie et Maine remains a haven of forests andhills, including the so-called Alpes Mancelles which in fact seldom rise above 400 metres. The Mayenne, and other rivers, attract anglers and boaters.

The capital Laval and its 11th century château was home to the barons, and later counts, of Laval until 1794. The turbulent history of the town is clear from the scale of the city walls (still standing), but there is a cultural side to Laval: its famous sons include painter Henri douanier Rousseau, and controversial playwright Alfred Jarry.

To the east lies Evron with its medieval basilica (parts of which date back to the 10th century) and nearby Gallo-Roman remains. The annual meat festival in the first week of September pays tribute to the main industry – abattoirs. Mayenne’s 11th century château bears witness to the fact that this little town was once as important as Laval, and there is an impressive Église de St Martin from the same period, as well as an ornate basilica dedicated to Notre Dame. Ernée to the east has an annual art exhibition during the second fortnight in June as well as a fair over the first weekend in September.

Lavel

Near Laval, the Roman city of Les Jublains offers its temple, baths and theatre for admiration. Further northeast, the forest can be admired from the Mont des Avaloirs, whose 417 metres have been raised to 435 metres by a new observation tower which draws its power from solar cells.

Nearby villages St Céneri-le-Gérie and fortified Ste Suzanne (renamed in the 10th century in honour of her relics, brought back from the Crusades) are noted for their prettiness.

In the south of the département is Château Gontier which grew up around the fortress by the Mayenne river and now stages the most important veal market in Europe (Thursday mornings). The romanesque St Jean Baptiste church has 11th century frescoes. To the west is Craon with its medieval streets and 18th century white stone château.