The lower reaches of the Loire wind between vineyards – home of the famous Saumur wines. The soft, creamy tuffeau stone of the region, used for many of the Loire châteaux, also made it easy for the inhabitants to dig themselves caves. They lived in the caves for centuries but today mushrooms have taken their place.

Angers, the ancient capital of Anjou, was from 1154 to 1399 the second capital of England since the Plantagenet family became kings of England as well as Dukes of Anjou. The 13th century château rises impressively over the river Maine, and visitors can still admire the 14th century Apocalypse tapestries, 101 metres long.

The 14th century cathedral of St Maurice is considered to have one of the best surviving French gothic portals, and the Hôpital St Jean was built in 1153 by Henry II of England in penitence for the murder of Thomas à Becket. North west is the small town of Segré which was once an important centre for slates. Today, the high hedges and trees covered with mistletoe add to its sleepy charm. In the east of the département, Baugé lies on the crossroads between Anjou and Touraine. Its small museum in the château, dating mostly from the 15th century, has a curious collection of historical household objects.

Fontevraud Abbey

Most famous for its still and sparkling wine, Saumur is an attractive town that has become better known recently for its mushroom growing in the tuffeau caves, and for its carnival masks.

The handsome château, immortalised in the “Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry”, still looks across the town, and there are a couple of 13th century churches. Saumur is also known as the cavalry centre of France, now embodied both in its famous cadre noir riding school, and in the more modern museum of tanks. Bagneux, on the outskirts of the town, offers an impressive dolmen, a megalith covered avenue over 30 metres long.

As well as an impressive 13th century abbey church, the remains of the once-prominent Fontevraud l’Abbaye include a cloister, kitchen, and the carved and painted gravestones of Henry II of England, his queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and Richard the Lionheart.

The church at Bauge

At Louresse-Rochemenier, near Doué la Fontaine, you can visit a “village troglodytique”, where 20 of the 250 chambers cut into rock are open to the public, including an underground chapel.

The 10th century church facade at Savennières, near Angers, is one of the oldest in Anjou, and a bridge links the town to the Ile Béhuard, where boatmen were said to go in pilgrimage for protection against the dangers of the river.

Cholet, in the south of the département, is an important industrial centre known for shoes, textiles and electronics. Most of the town is 19th century and the museum of Art et d’Histoire is worth an afternoon. There is also a textile museum. North of Cholet is Beaupréau with a fine medieval château which has 18th century additions. Nearby Chemillé is most famous for its medicinal herbs and 16th century chapel.