Cherbourg is first and foremost a port. Most of the town’s life seems to revolve around its seafaring traditions as does much of the surrounding area with tiny ports dotted along the rugged coastline which forms the Cotentin peninsula. Like so many other Normandy towns, Cherbourg suffered during the latter stages of WWII and today is not the prettiest of places.

St Lô also suffered from the war and, while being the capital, it has little to see. The waters of the nearby river Vire are popular for trout fishing. Coutances has an impressive 13th century cathedral but it is more famous across the country for its delicious cheese which should be enjoyed before looking at the percentage of fat it contains!

North of Coutances is Lessay whose romanesque church needed major restoration after WWII. There is a major livestock market and fair here in September. South and on the coast is the popular summer resort of Granville. A favourite since the 19th century, the town is still an important fishing centre despite it relying mostly on tourism. The granite fortifications are imposing.

On the western coast are the twin resorts of Carteret and Barneville which share three fine sandy beaches and dunes. Protected by the Channel Islands, the resorts also benefit from the warmth of the passing Gulf Stream and are always popular with families.

Oysters and mussels stall

In the middle of the peninsula, north towards Cherbourg, is the charming town of Valognes. Sited on an ancient crossroads, the town is ideal for anyone wanting to escape the beaches in summer for a civilised lunch. There is also a cider museum.

On the road south towards Bayeux is the small market town of Carentan with its small marina for Sunday sailors. It is a centre for dairy products.

The jewel in Normandy’s crown is Mont St Michel. Thought to have been inhabited since 500 AD the majority of the spectacular romanesque and gothic buildings date from the 13-16th centuries including the three story Merveille. The tarmac causeway means the site is no longer an island and the tide no longer sweeps in at the speed of a galloping horse. The tiny streets and steep stairs are not so enchanting when it’s busy in the spring and summer.

A short drive east is Avranches which makes a healthy living from the tourists. It has some very good restaurants but in the summer the most popular place to eat is the Jardin des Plantes where picnickers look out across the bay at the Mount.