Limoges, despite being founded in the reign of the Roman Emperor Augustus and drenched in 2,000 years of history, rarely seduces enough to stay much longer than a day.

With half-timbered houses and narrow streets, the old quarter lies in the west of the city away from the St-Etienne cathedral. The château quarter being the modern commercial part swirls around the Place de la République. It all seems quite apt, the old keeping the modern at arm’s length.

A short walk along Rue de la Boucherie (the butchers’ shops that lined the street in the middle ages have been replaced by restaurants) are two dark churches. The interior of St Michel des Lions is lifted by two quite startlingly beautiful 15th century stained glass windows.

The cathedral is predominantly gothic soaring skywards and also includes an ornate renaissance rood screen. Its fame as a centre for porcelain began in the 1770s when a discovery of extremely high quality kaolin was found in the nearby village of St Yrieix.

Seven kilometres in the direction of St Yriex, the vélo-rail de Bussière Galant is open every weekend from May to October (daily in July and August). The trolleys operate by pedal power and there are picnic sites along the five kilometre stretch of single track.

	Lac de Vassivière

The kaolin (long since exhausted) made fine, nearly white porcelain. For anyone curious to know what makes it different from other baked clay-pottery or see some celebrity services once owned by the likes of Napoléon and other assorted French royals, the Musée National Adrien Douche is the place to head for. The 10,000 exhibits including early Greek and Chinese pieces trace the history of ceramics to the modern day.

Out of the city the Route Richard Coeur de Lion (details from the tourist office) links the châteaux Rochebrune and Rochechouart. Rouchechouart, which started life as a fortress and is today a town hall, is worth a visit in its own right. The nearby museum of contemporary art, contains a couple of gems including some 16th century frescoes of the Labours of Hercules.

Otherwise the Lac de Vassivière, the little town of Solignac and the ghostly remains of the village of Oradour sur Glane (be prepared as it is a stark monument to a Nazi atrocity during WWII), serve as focal points for a gentle driving tour.

Historic capital of the Basse Marche, Le Dorat has a fine collection of renaissance houses as well as its medieval ramparts. The collegiate church of St Pierre is a huge 12th century edifice, its spire capped with a golden angel.

Bellac is in need of a bypass, being at the crossroads of two routes nationales used by heavy lorries on their way to Limoges and Confolens. Cross over to the south side and the peaceful old town with views over the Vincou valley. The Festival Bellac rolls through June and July with theatre, concerts and exhibitions, dedicated to the poet Giraudoux who was born here.

	River Gartempe

St Junien is known for its leather goods, in particular, gloves. A lively market is held in the gallo-roman centre on Saturdays as well as fair on the third Saturday every month. Enthusiasts of tractor racing (camion cross) arrive on the last weekend of August, amid the noise of diesel engines and clouds of dust.

At the foot of the mountains of the same name, Ambazac possesses two ancient relics in its otherwise unnoteworthy church. A chest decorated with precious stones, delicate enamel and copper work, and a silk dalmatic with gold motifs, both dating to the 12th century.

Coussac Bonneval has one of the prettiest châteaux in the region. There are guided tours every afternoon from mid-March to November. The Bonnevals are an ancient French family and the current marquis and marchioness still live in the 16th century château, filled with renaissance and directoire furniture, Aubusson tapestries and fine paintings. Each summer there are classical and baroque concerts held in the church.

St Léonard de Noblat still produces porcelain with three workshops in operation. Its medieval centre has some old houses dating from the 13th century and remains of the fortifications. The 18th century physicist Gay Lussac was born here and there is a small museum dedicated to his work. The 11th century collegiate church houses the tomb of St Léonard.

Le Château de Châlus Chabrol in Châlus is worth a visit despite its ruined state. Richard the Lionheart died of a crossbow wound in the château and his entrails were buried here while his heart was taken off to Rouen and the rest of the body to Fontevraud.