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Hérault

Hérault, Languedoc-Roussillon, France - intoFrance

  Waterjousting in Sète
Waterjousting in Sète

Boats in the Golfe du Lion have always sheltered in the harbour at the mouth of the Hérault – Le Grau d’Agde. However most tourists head for Cap d’Agde as it’s one of the most stylish resortson the Languedoc coast. It has fantastic sandy beaches, busy bars and smart restaurants, but if you have younger children, make sure you book accommodation a little further away as the centre can be noisy and lively.

Cap d’Agde is also famous for its naturists and while those without clothes don’t mind those with....it is often not the case the other way round.

Along the coast road towards Sète kilometres of beaches in front of a salty basin, the Bassin de Thau. There are campsites behind and always a steady flow of cars looking for a space before the family jumps out to run across the road. It gets very hot and unless you’re a serious sunseeker, half days usually do the trick.

Sète itself is a charming little fishing town with a real Mediterranean rather than a leisure feel to it, with its quayside and comings and goings of major ships. The port has a lovely Grand Canal with Italianate painted houses in various pastels - with plenty of restaurants serving platters of fresh seafood - and a network of canals and bridges.

  Montpellier
Montpellier
During weekends (and some bank holidays) in June, July, August and September the town stages its Languedoc water jousting competitions. Two boats on the canal row towards each other – the unlucky jouster ends up in the drink. A great spectacle to watch while sipping a little glass.

Montpellier, the lively young capital of the region teems with life year round. Its university population fills up the bars and cafés out of season, and visitors take their place during the peak holiday periods. Most of the city centre is pedestrianised - park around Quartier Antigone to the east, Boulevard des Arceaux to the west - compact, very attractive on the eye and the beach is pretty good too.

During the 17th and 18th centuries a number of very attractive hôtel particuliers were built as homes by wealthy citizens, where today, the ground floors have been skilfully converted into smart shops and cafés.

Some of the most atmospheric streets to spend some time in include Rue de l’Ancien Courier, Rue des Trésoriers, and the buzzy Place de la Comédie with the Fontaine des Trois Graces.

Montpellier fruit stall  
Montpellier fruit stall
West and slightly inland is the market town of Pézenas which is an important trading centre for wine. It is exceptionally pretty with grand buildings from the 15-17th century when it was an important political centre. A speciality of the town is les petits pâtés, small pies of minced lamb and jam!

Further west is Béziers another important town associated with the wine and alcohol trade. The main street Les Allées Paul Riquet comes alive whenever the town’s favourite sport is played –rugby. Its medieval streets are fascinating to wander through, but it’s easy to forget how to get back to the car. The cathedral St Nazaire dates from the 14th century and dominates the town from its central perch.

At one time a large centre of silk production, Ganges is a good base to wander through the gorges of the river Vis and Le Cirque de Navacelles. A big tourist attraction in summer, this natural site created by a loop in the river is reached from St Maurice de Navacelles. The energetic can walk down into the gorge – it will take about seven hours to cover the 16 km. Alternatively walk along the road at the top. To the south east are the grottoes, Les grottes des Demoiselles, with spectacular caves of stalactites and stalagmites.

Lodève’s houses are grouped around the great St Fulcran cathedral, dominated by a huge tower. There is a crystal chandelier in the nave, a present from Queen Victoria to Napoléon III, 18th and 19th century organs and stained glass by Mauvernay. The local museum Le Musée de Lodève-Hôtel du Cardinal de Fleury has some good prehistoric and stone age exhibits from the area.

Béziers  
Béziers
Gignac is a good place to stop for lunch before driving up to the gorges de l’Hérault and the underground caves, la grotte de Clamouse, close to the pretty village of St Guilhem le Desert.

Between Montpellier and Nîmes, take a detour along the N110 through Castries with its 17th century château, known as the Versailles of Languedoc, with attractive French gardens. Close by is the aqueduct which brought water to the château. Less well known is the Templars’ fort, La Commanderie des Templiers, a pleasant walk of about two kilometres from the village.

Lunel, close to La Camargue, is known for its sweet Muscat wine. Between here and Sommières is le site d’Ambrusum, remains of the Via Domitia, the Roman road which linked the Alps with the Pyrénées.

High up in the Espinouse mountains St Pons de Thomières is a popular base for mountain biking, hiking and pony trekking in the Languedoc regional park. The cathedral is a strange mixture of romanesque and baroque styles and overlooks the little square where the weekly market is held on Wednesday morning. There are more caves, la grotte de la Devèze, nearby at Caniou.

The tiny village of Minerve is home to barely 100 people, but none the less has given its name to Minervois wine.

Clermont l’Hérault is in the heart of the wine country and the olive groves. During the summer, it is possible to visit L’huilerie to see how the oil is made and buy some bottles, as well as lucques, the uniquely shaped olives of the area.

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