Reims is only about two and a half hours' drive from Calais and while it is possible to go just for lunch, it deserves a longer visit. The one thing not to miss in Reims is its landmark gothic cathedral Notre Dame which was built in 1211 and mercifully survived the French Revolution. In July and August there are daily guided tours which point out details easily missed. The interior is beautifully lit, enabling visitors to appreciate its vast proportions, both in length and height, and the breath-taking colour of the stained glass windows, some of them dating from the 13th century. It was the decision by the French royal court to stage coronations in the cathedral which led to champagne becoming popular among the nobility of Europe as they were treated to the "king of wines" during the festivities.

Next door is the Palais du Tau, the former archbishop's palace, which houses treasure and statuary from the cathedral including Charlemagne's 9th century talisman.

	The rose window, Reims cathedral

A collection of shops specialising in champagne have sprouted near the cathedral. They have some amazing bottles but are not always the most competitively priced. Pavement cafés and bars line the length of the main Place Drouet d’Erlon - open and pedestrianised. For a change from champagne, visit the Café Leffe which specialises in beer.

The Musée des Beaux-Arts has 26 landscapes by Corot among its extensive collection covering the period from the renaissance to the present day. There is a fascinating collection of 15th and 16th century works showing religious scenes which are thought to have been used for mystery plays or lined the route to the cathedral for coronations.

	Champagne vineyards

In the Champs de Mars district you can visit the houses of Veuve Clicquot-Pousardin, Pommery, Piper-Heidsieck, Taittinger and Mumm. Tastings are optional... As well as champagne taste the champagne based aperitif Ratafia.

While Reims is lively and an important cultural centre, Epernay is seen by most as the true capital of champagne. The drive from Reims through the vineyards indicates that this is where the serious business of making champagne takes place.

Caves Mercier in Epernay

The tourism office at the beginning of the Avenue de Champagne is as good a place as any to start. The avenue is one famous name after another with the maisons de champagne standing proudly above their labyrinthine cellars - said to hold more than 90 million bottles!

The houses, most of which are 19th century in classical or neo-renaissance style, welcome visitors and for a small price will happily do a tour and furnish you with a flute to taste afterwards. The larger houses have organised tours with trains in the tunnels underground. Mercier, Moët et Chandon and De Castellane all provide guided visits throughout the day in season, and each has a different story to tell about the history of their own particular champagne. Mercier's train ride gives an idea of the kilometres (yes, kilometres!) of galleries storing champagne under the streets of Epernay. There is also a nice story that the Orient Express used to stop at the base of the chalk hill, with hungry passengers heading through a door giving direct access into a giant cavern where banquets were served.

	Moët et Chandon

Back at ground level, the De Castellane museum has exhibits from every part of the champagne making process. Climbing the tower's steep steps is a good way to work up an appetite.

The town itself is vibrant and prosperous, with streets of small shops and souvenirs, and markets held in the Halle Saint-Thibault on Wednesday and Saturday, the Place Auban-Moët on Sunday, and in the Place Hugues Plomb on Tuesday and Thursday. Be warned that the majority of the houses close in August for the summer holidays. Surprisingly it is often cheaper to buy champagne in the hypermarkets around the town, or in the specialist wine shops than direct from the houses themselves.

The church at Chanery

South of Epernay on the D10 and D9 head for Vertus. With vineyards either side, the drive is pretty. Vertus is a small market town with many producers, some of whom do tastings. A little further south just across the D933 is a hill with a viewpoint on it. The drive to the top is worth it for the stunning views across the plains and the vineyards. West is Etoges which has a beautiful moated château that is a hotel and restaurant. Many of the forests around Epernay suffered damage during the storms in 1999 including the beautifully laid out park around the château.

On the river Marne is Châlons en Champagne (formerly Châlons sur Marne) set among the fields. Its 12th century gothic Notre Dame en Vaux cathedral is impressive and the municipal museum has archaeology and sculpture from the 12th to the 15th century and some 16th and 17th century Hindu deities. The Romans defeated Attila and his Huns in battle near the town in the 5th century. The Jard park was laid out in the 18th century on the banks of the Nau on former grazing land and is a good place for a picnic with the view of the Château d'Eau with its 16th century turret. South east, Saint Dizier has the romantic remains of a 13th Cistercian abbey.

Sézanne in the west of the département is an ancient town on the road to Paris. Wide avenues have replaced the ramparts that formed the fortifications. It is an important market centre.