Ardennes in the north of the Champagne region remains calmly unspoilt. "Ardennes" is an old Gallic word meaning "deep forest" and the scenery has changed little in centuries.

The views across the Meuse valley from the many designated viewpoints are stunning - they make ideal spots for a picnic. The museums, military châteaux, and fortified churches make it clear that the département was at the centre of border conflicts throughout the middle ages.

Charleville-Mézières is an ideal base from which to explore the Meuse valley. Two towns in one, it has elegance and warmth from being an important trading centre. Place Ducale, the main square, is similar to the imposing Place des Vosges in Paris and bustles on market days - Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

	Puppet Theatre

The town is known as the world’s puppet capital, playing host to the World Puppet Festival in September. In Place Winston Churchill, at the strike of every hour, figurines emerge from the clock tower playing out a scene from local legend. For the best show of the week, be in the square on Saturday at 9.15 when all 12 scenes are acted out in succession. The International Puppet Institute, which is based in the town, also stages workshops and performances in the square.

The Vieux Moulin houses the Ardennes museum and also a museum of the celebrated poet Rimbaud, who is buried in the town. Charleville-Mézières is also famous for its carolo (Ardennes ham). If the weather is good the boat trip along the Meuse is a leisurely way to spend the afternoon.

To the east is Sedan with its colossal fortified château, reinforced regularly to resist incursions from marauding hordes. The castle is the largest medieval stronghold in northern Europe. At the Musée du Châteaufort there is an exhibition of 16th, 17th and 18th century tapestries and paintings. The St Charles church is interesting as it was a 16th century protestant church. Rue de l'Horloge has a number of medieval houses. South of the town at Bazeilles are the remains of 6,000 French and German soldiers killed during WWI.

Gardens in Charleville-Mézières

In the north on the Belgian border is Rocroi, known for its cheese. This small town with fortifications by Vauban has a street plan dating back to the early 17th century. Nearby Revin was built by the Spanish and has a bread festival in May.

Rethel's Monday livestock market is the most important in the area. The town is also celebrated for its boudin blanc - white, as opposed to black, pudding. There is a white pudding festival every April. Destroyed in both world wars, the town has few old buildings but the St Nicolas church still stands and dates back to the 15th century.

For serious museum buffs, the Musée de l’Ardoise in Fumay, and the Maison de l’Ardoise (Rimogne) both celebrate the life and dedication of the slate miners of the region.