Sens is the first stop for anyone heading into the heart of Burgundy from Paris. On the banks of the river Yonne, like many towns in the département, Sens is remarkable for its cathedral whose spire was completed before the first stone of Notre Dame in Paris was laid. It has fine stained glass, including windows depicting the story of Thomas à Becket’s life (he was exiled nearby).

To the south of Sens, Joigny, spanning the river Yonne, dates from the 10th century. There are some good examples of wooden houses in the narrow streets. The church of St Thibault, with its great square tower has an impressive statue of the saint on horseback over the portal. In contrast, the Espace Jean de Joigny is a collection of modern buildings and art exhibitions in the former medieval town centre which was destroyed in 1981 in a gas explosion.

	Auxerre

Also on the Yonne is Auxerre (pronounced ‘Aussere’), a good centre for visiting the picturesque vineyards of Chablis and the cherry tree strewn hills of St Bris le Vineux. This small town produces an excellent sauvignon blanc, rather more fruity than Chablis, at a fraction of the price. Tastings (dégustations) are in the 11th century cellars behind the church.

Auxerre is a pleasant town, in particular the Quartier de la Marine with its wood faced houses and narrow streets, with sophisticated, arty shops - and the occasional old lady knitting on her doorstep. The Cathédrale St Etienne is worth visiting for its stained glass and huge rose window, rare 11th century frescoes and a treasury of beautiful illuminated texts and religious artefacts in gold and ivory.

St Fargeau Château

To the south lies Avallon, perched on a granite promontory in the Cousin valley. Once an important fortified town, its old centre is enclosed by 15th century ramparts - many of which are still intact. Dominated by its belfry, the 11th century church of St Lazarus is famous for its romanesque style doors. The Costume Museum and the Musée de l’Avallonnais are both worth a visit.

Seven kilometres to the east at Sauvigny le Bois France, the Château de Monjalin houses a vehicle museum containing an impressive collection used by heads of state including Breznev’s and Honnecker’s Zils, Charles de Gaulle’s Simca, Giscard d’Estaing’s DS 23 and Paul VI’s Popemobile.

	Tanlay Château

Little of medieval Tonnerre remains after a fire in the 16th century but the Hôtel Dieu is worth visiting. This old hospice was founded in 1293 and is open every day from June to September. Its history is shown in the adjoining museum, Le Musée Hospitalier. There are good views over the town from the Eglise St Pierre, which rises up beside the Fosse Dionne, a circular basin fed with spring waters from the Vaucluse in Provence, used as a public wash house.

On the northern edge of the Parc Naturel du Morvan, Vézelay held a very important position in the middle ages, being a departure point on the pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compostela and the Second Crusade. There is still a pilgrimage to the church on the 22nd of July each year. The 12th century basilica of Ste Madeleine, despite 19th century renovation, has some superb romanesque art and has been classified as a World Heritage Site. At the back of the church a little path leads round the ramparts where there is a great view over the countryside.

To the west of the département heading towards the vineyards near Sancerre, is Château de Saint Fargeau. This enormous 15-17th century château dominates the tiny village with its six massive towers and walls enclosing the courtyard. It is in the process of being restored but the family apartments and summer shows with knights on horseback are a good Sunday diversion.

Toucy has an interesting church with twin12th century towers but most visitors arrive for the Saturday morning market.