At 610 km² this is the smallest département in France, tucked up on the Swiss/German border and well placed for exploring the north eastern part of the river Doubs.

The Belfort Gap has been of huge strategic importance in the past with its own deep, wide valley joining the valleys of the Rhône and the Rhine. The geographical result being that it forms the only breach in the “wall” of the mountain ranges of the Vosges and the Jura with Germany.

It resisted being besieged in 1814, 1815 and most notably in 1870 during the Prussian war –and avoided being annexed unlike Alsace and Lorraine. This resistance is commemorated by the 11 metre high red-pink sandstone lion, built into the rock face.

There’s a viewing platform by the statue, although close up the lion looks less dramatic than when viewed at a distance. The views over the town and its surrounding countryside make the climb up worth the effort.

Rodin Sculpture

Getting round Belfort presents little problem as the town is sliced in half by the river Savoureuse with the old town in the east, full of old fashioned grocery and antique shops, and to the west the commercial part.

The town has more of an Alsatian or even German feel to it than French, with its large open squares and imposing houses.

Inside the citadel there’s the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire with some works by Rodin, various artefacts from the Bronze and Iron ages found nearby, and some military objects from the town’s history of defending itself. The walk round the fortifications gives sweeping views.

Delle, the second city of the département, lies on the Swiss border and has some fine old houses from the 16th century. The carnival and chocolate festival takes place in March.