You may be forgiven for thinking the ramparts of St Malo actually witnessed the swashbuckling corsairs setting off to harry the English, so faithful has been the reconstruction of the town after the devastation of World War II.

The walled town, Intra Muros, is packed with atmosphere with its colourful pavement cafés and chic boutiques. Out of season is more enjoyable for strolling along the ramparts before choosing one of the numerous restaurants in Rue Jacques Cartier or Rue Sainte Barbe.

The fort national, built by Vauban, is accessible at low tide - it is open when the French tricolor is flying above the fortifications. This is a great centre for water sports, including sailing, windsurfing, canoeing and scuba diving. The weekly market is on Fridays.

Dinard, across the estuary, was a favourite haunt of the English aristocracy in the 19th century, establishing a tennis and a golf club for their amusement. The old stylish villas give the town a touch of class and extravagance, earning the name "Nice of the North".

The sandy beaches are ideal for children and there are some good walks around the bay, with stunning views, taking in the Claire de Lune walkway which is illuminated during the season. A couple of relaxing hours can be spent taking a boat up the river Rance to medieval Dinan. Weekly market days are Thursdays and Saturdays.

Château de Combourg

Cancale, on the Emerald Coast, first became famous for its oysters which were supplied to royal tables in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the seafront of the "oyster capital" is packed with restaurants offering the pied de cheval flat variety, sometimes so substantial they are eaten with a knife and fork. The town is not as pretty as some, but the scale and variety of the seafood make a very pleasant lunchtime visit.

The walk from the famous Cancale rock up to the Pointe du Grohin gives superb views of Mont St Michel on a clear day. The weekly market day is Sunday.

Dol de Bretagne is the first town of note when travelling from Normandy and is a good base for exploring the countryside, forest and historic towns nearby. St Samson cathedral is a bit of a hotch-potch of styles externally but inside it is simple harmony with superb 13th century stained glass in the choir. Grande Rue and Rue Lejamptel form the heart of the town with some fine medieval houses.

A short walk along the Promenade des Douves gives good views over the Dol marshes. Towards Vivier sur Mer. Le Mont Dol is a dome like lump of granite which rises out of the marshland to 65 metres. It was an ancient Druid ritual site but its summit is now popular for picnics.

	Dinard Beach

For centuries an important frontier fortress, Fougères dominates the hilltop overlooking the Breton-Norman border. The town’s history inspired many prominent authors including Victor Hugo, Châteaubriand, Balzac and Flaubert. The elegant main street, Rue Nationale, is pedestrianised and has a tiny museum of the town's history.

The medieval quarter, once the home of tanners and dyers, still has some ancient wooden houses. The château is one of the best preserved in France and is open from June to September. The nearby forest of Fougères is good for walkers and has marked trails along the river bank or by St François lake.

An important centre in the middle ages, Vitré was famous for its cloth which was exported to Europe and America. It is a charming town with a splendid château and possibly the best collection of medieval streets and buildings in Brittany.

The château and museum are open every day from July to the end of September. Eglise Notre Dame, built in the 15th century in flamboyant gothic style has superb stained glass. A few kilometres to the south east is the Château des Rochers Sévigné, home to Madame de Sévigné, notorious for her witty and rather bitchy observations on life at Louis XIV’s court. The château grounds are now an attractive golf course.

Rennes, the capital of Brittany, is an industrial centre, the main product being Citroën cars. The old centre is elegant and dates from the 18th century, when the town was rebuilt after being almost destroyed by fire. The modern city, with its hotels and neon lights, lies on the other side of the river Rance.

Fougères Château

Rennes is considered the rock capital of France, and with a large student population, the atmosphere is young with a huge number of bars and a very lively nightlife. A walk around old, pre-fire Rennes is recommended: Les Portes Mordelaises (the 15th century ramparts), St Pierre cathedral and the 16th century architecture of Place des Lices – the Saturday morning market is one of the largest in France and a real spectacle.

Situated at the confluence of the rivers Vilaine and Oust, and the Nantes-Brest canal is Redon, another “little Venice”. This time the nickname is justified as the town is criss-crossed with waterways and numerous bridges. The old port, below Grand’Rue, is pleasant for a stroll along the towpath, among the colourful locks and the old houses with their salt lofts.

There are many festivals during the year including Les Nocturiales at the end of July and the beginning of August. This celebration of medieval, baroque and celtic music features weekly performances around the church of St Sauveur. The chestnut fair, La Foire de la Teillouse, takes place in October.

La Gacilly is the headquarters of the cosmetic company Yves Rocher and is worth a detour for the artisans’ workshops lining the narrow streets and the botanic garden. Factory visits are available, but only in July and August. For visitors out of season, there are boat trips on the river Aff.

Grand Fougeray, 10 kilometres east of Redon, boasts a ruined château which played a part in the War of Breton Succession. The attractive park, bordered by a lake, is a good spot for a picnic lunch.